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我在海外说:李子柒的泡菜争议究竟在哪里,韩国泡菜与中国泡菜一样么

徽剑 徽剑 2023-07-30

一段时间以来,因为李子柒在youtube上发布了一段讲述用萝卜来制作泡菜的视频,引起韩国网友的不满,然后消息传到国内来了,国内网友也开始不爽了。那么这究竟怎么回事呢?


其实这是一个很无厘头的事情,归根到底,责任真的在我们中国人身上。


我写了好几篇文章:


第一篇,关于泡菜争议的问题症结所在





Why are South Korea and China fighting over kimchi?


For someone who has studied a food course specifically, I think this controversy is actually all wrong. Be it Korean or Chinese.


This is because Korean kimchi and Chinese paocai are actually two methods of food preparation. I've changed the word for Chinese kimchi to differentiate.


Korean kimchi, in the food world, is also known as "dry fermented pickles".


Chinese paocai, in food circles, is also known as "wet fermented pickles".


The two processes are completely different, and the core of the controversy is actually the English word.


In English, Chinese paocai is translated as kimchi.


Then in Chinese, it is translated as "Chinese“泡菜”" for Korean kimchi.


This creates a misunderstanding that kimchi and paocai are the same thing.


It is like the Western dragon, which has two wings and a big belly, and the Chinese long, which is not the same thing. The Chinese long has no wings and is long and thin.


The western dragon is evil, while the eastern long is a symbol of good fortune.


But when they are both translated as dragons, that's when the joke is on them.


Korean kimchi, using cabbage kimchi as an example


In early winter the whole cabbage is cut in half vertically, or not, and drowned in salt to remove excess water, then homemade spicy sauce is mixed with garlic, onions, chilli powder, dried chillies, grated pears, radish, shredded radish, or shredded carrot, minced spring onion, etc., plus fish sauce, pounded shrimps or shrimp paste and other seafood. The longer the kimchi is stored, the better it will be. The longer the kimchi is stored, the better it tastes, but it is important to keep the environment around the storage area cool. As the new generation of small families live in flats, they are buying expensive kimchi refrigerators to store their kimchi in.


Chinese paocai, often referred to as Sichuan paocai (sometimes called "pickled pickles" or "pickled sauerkraut"), is a household food served in the Sichuan and Chongqing regions of China. In Sichuan and Chongqing, it is a well-known food in the Sichuan and Chongqing regions of China. At feasts and banquets, several colours of paocai are served at the end of the meal (known as "accompanying rice dishes") to adjust the taste and have a special effect of waking up and relieving greasiness. It is made of brine with Sichuan salt, cooking wine, white wine, brown sugar and a variety of spices, and is served in a specially made earthenware paocai jar. Roots, stems, melons, fruits and leafy vegetables (such as radish, chilli, ginger, bitter gourd, aubergine, cowpea, garlic shoots, lotus white and bok choy) are washed and put into the jar, which is then sealed tightly and fermented with lactic acid for a certain period of time.


To put it simply, Korean kimchi and Chinese paocai are both made by a process of lactic acid fermentation, but the difference is that


Korean kimchi is mainly a mixture of vegetables and ingredients that are then stacked in layers and stored for fermentation.


Chinese paocai is made by first making a pickling liquid and then marinating and fermenting the vegetables in the liquid.


There is actually a European model of fermented vegetables, such as the famous Russian pickled cucumber, which is more similar to Chinese paocai.


Chinese paocai is not the same thing as Korean kimchi, so you get the idea.


On 5 December 2013 UNESCO inscribed Korea's 'pickled wintering kimchi culture' on the UNESCO Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity.


Or Chinese Sichuan paocai became an international standard.


These are two different kinds of food, two different things.


The funniest thing is that in Korea some people are now appearing to make it in the same way as Sichuan paocai, and in China some people are appearing to make it in the same way as Korean kimchi. But both think it is the way their ancestors did it.


Then it's funny.


韩国和中国为什么要争泡菜?


对于一个专门学习过厨艺课程的人来说,我认为这个争议其实都是错误的。不管是韩国的还是中国的。


因为韩国的泡菜 kimchi和中国的paocai其实是两种食物制作方法。我把中国泡菜的字改了一下,以示区分。


韩国泡菜 kimchi,在美食界又被称为 "干发酵腌菜"。

中国的paocai,在美食界,也被称为 "湿发酵腌菜"。


两种工艺完全不同,争议的核心其实是英文单词。


在英文中,中文“泡菜”被翻译成 kimchi。

(备注:“ kimchi”这个单词来自朝鲜语发音)

那么在中文中,韩国泡菜 kimchi就被翻译成 中文 "泡菜"。


这就造成了一个误解,认为泡菜 kimchi和中国paocai是一回事


这就好比西方的龙,它有两只翅膀,肚子很大,和中国的龙,不是一回事。中国长没有翅膀,又长又瘦。

西方的龙是邪恶的,而东方的长是吉祥的象征。

但当它们都被翻译成龙的时候,那就是笑话了。


韩国泡菜,以白菜泡菜为例。


初冬将整棵大白菜竖着切成两半,或不切,用盐淹去多余的水分,然后将自制的辣酱与大蒜、洋葱、辣椒粉、干辣椒、梨末、萝卜丝或胡萝卜丝、葱末等混合在一起,再加上鱼露、舂虾或虾酱等海产品。泡菜存放的时间越长,味道越好。泡菜存放的时间越长,味道越好,但要注意保持存放地周围环境的凉爽。由于新一代的小家庭都住在单位,他们都会购买昂贵的泡菜冰箱来储存泡菜。



泡菜,通常被称为四川泡菜(有时也被称为 "泡菜 "或 "泡酸菜"),是中国四川和重庆地区的一种家庭食品。在川渝地区,它是中国川渝地区的著名食品。在宴席上,餐后要上几色paocai(称为 "下饭菜"),以调整口味,有醒酒解腻的特殊功效。它是用卤水加川盐、料酒、白酒、红糖和多种香料制成,装在特制的陶制paocai罐中。将根、茎、瓜、果、叶类蔬菜(如萝卜、辣椒、生姜、苦瓜、茄子、豇豆、蒜薹、莲花白、青菜等)洗净后放入罐中,再将罐子密封严实,用乳酸发酵一定的时间。


简单来说,韩国泡菜和中国泡菜都是采用乳酸发酵的工艺制作的,但不同的是


韩国泡菜主要是将蔬菜和食材混合后,层层叠加,存放发酵。


中国的paocai则是先制作腌制液,然后将蔬菜在液体中腌制发酵。


其实欧洲有一种发酵蔬菜的模式,比如俄罗斯著名的腌黄瓜,就和中国的paocai比较相似。


中国的paocai和韩国的泡菜 kimchi不是一回事,你懂的。


2013年12月5日,联合国教科文组织将韩国的 "腌冬菜文化 "列入联合国教科文组织人类非物质文化遗产代表作名录。


或者说中国的四川泡菜paocai成了国际标准。


这是两种不同的食物,两种不同的东西。


最可笑的是,现在韩国有人出现了和四川泡菜一样的做法,中国有人出现了和韩国泡菜一样的做法。但是都认为是自己祖先的做法。


那么这就很有意思了。






第二篇文章,批评了韩国人



Why does a Chinese YouTuber with 14 million subscribers claim red kimchi as Chinese pickles?



I do not approve of the anger of the Koreans.


The reason is simple, there is nothing in this video that says kimchi is Chinese.


It is merely a girl using the Korean kimchi method in preparing food.


If it was a non-Chinese person who was using Chinese methods to make food, I think Chinese people would have gone to praise her instead of abusing her.


I think this approach is too sensitive. I myself have also posted some videos on youtube specifically of myself filming food to demonstrate how to make Chinese food. Non-Chinese people are more than welcome to learn all this.


Li Ziqi's video shows how she makes kimchi. This then caused resentment among Koreans. The Koreans thought that her video made people all over the world think that kimchi originated in China.


So I wrote a special reply to explain the difference between Korean kimchi and Chinese kimchi.


Huijian Wu's answer to Why are South Korea and China fighting over kimchi?


It is important to point out that Lee's video uses both Korean kimchi and Chinese kimchi, and Lee's video also points out that Korean kimchi comes from Korea.


The controversy is really more about the English and Chinese translations.


It is true that kimchi in English comes from the Korean peninsula. However, many people also translate the Chinese word paocai as kimchi.


On the other hand, the Chinese term "kimchi kimchi" includes both Korean kimchi and Sichuan kimchi.


Therefore, it is all about translation.


I don't think the Koreans who swear are very good at English, are they?


为什么一个拥有1400万用户的中国youtube称红泡菜为中国泡菜?


我不赞成韩国人的愤怒。


原因很简单,这段视频中并没有说泡菜是中国的。


这只是一个女孩用韩国泡菜的方法来制作食物。


如果是一个非中国人用中国的方法来制作食物,我想中国人一定会去赞美她,而不是辱骂她。


我觉得这种做法太敏感了。我自己也在youtube上专门发布了一些自己拍摄食物的视频,来演示如何制作中餐。非中国人更欢迎学习这些。


李子柒的视频展示了她如何制作泡菜。这就引起了韩国人的不满。韩国人认为,她的视频让全世界的人都认为泡菜起源于中国。


所以我专门写了一篇回答,解释韩国泡菜和中国泡菜的区别。


需要指出的是,李子柒的视频既使用了韩国泡菜,也使用了中国泡菜,而且李子柒的视频还指出韩国泡菜来自韩国。


争议其实更多的是中英文翻译的问题。


英语中的泡菜确实来自朝鲜半岛。但是,很多人也把中文的paocai翻译成泡菜。


另一方面,中文的 "泡菜 "包括韩国泡菜和四川泡菜。


因此,这就是翻译的问题。


我想那些说脏话的韩国人的英语水平应该不高吧?






在这篇文章下面,有韩国网友出来解释了为什么引起争议,我直接用网页给大家看吧,免得破坏回复格式。




需要强调,上面有个貌似中国网友说辣白菜,其实辣白菜真的是来自朝鲜半岛,就是泡菜。李子柒视频是关于萝卜。





徽剑总结如下:


英语和中文在翻译的时候,很多词语无法做到一一对应。(为什么有时候出现中英夹杂,有时真的不是假装洋鬼子,而是那个单词表达的意思,在中文里面真不一定好表达。)特别是涉及到名词的时候,我觉得我们有关部门应该出台一个专门的翻译名词对照表。


比如,西方英文单词的“dragon”,它的意思是凶猛的有翼的野兽,恶魔等。中国人在外国人面前称自己为龙的传人,翻译成英文,另一种意思就是“恶魔的传人”。


西方的“dragon”是一种长两个翅膀、大肚子凶猛的动物,是黑暗生物。

中国的“龙”是没有翅膀,细长的动物,是吉祥生物。


所以,把自己翻译成恶魔的传人,这是笑话了


其实海外已经帮我们做了选择。把英文单词“龙”的音译为“ loong”,而不是“ dragon”。例如,著名武术家李小龙的名字为“李小龙” "Lee Siu Loong" ,新加坡总理李显龙被翻译为“Lee Hsien Loong”。


需要指出,为什么不把龙直接翻译成long,是因为按照英美人的发音习惯,long的发音接近英语的Wolf(狼)


单词loong在英语中不存在,因此将“龙”译为loong不会引起歧义。


所以说像泡菜这种,明明中国泡菜和韩国泡菜不一样,为什么非要使用韩国发音的单词kimchi?






真正的翻译没那么简单,这是徽剑我个人学习外语最大的感受,我最害怕的翻译内容,不是学术性的,而是菜谱等文化性的东西,如何能够翻译出原来的意思,这个真的不容易,甚至做不到。目前我掌握的四种外语里面,英语和日语翻译中基本可以体现文化感觉,西班牙语和法语就没那么容易了。


目前我们下面的直属团队可以接受英语、德语、法语、西班牙语、葡萄牙语、意大利语、荷兰语、波兰语、俄语、日语和中文的互相翻译。


另外,东南亚的语言柬埔寨语、越南语、泰国语、缅甸语、马来语、印尼语也可以翻译。大家如果有这方面需求,可以联系助理微信号wukai0202让她们赚点过年的红包钱。

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